Continued from:

Under: Indian Creek

IC Day 2

April 27, 2012

I had to 'take it easy' today since my Psoa was still really sore and have been aggravated by climbing Binge & Purge the day before. Fortunately, Alf Randell was happy to show us his favorite crag, Technicolor Wall. He didn't mind playing rope gun, treating us to a few routes such as Whale's Back (5.10), Color Me Bad Ass (5.10+ OW), On the Up & UP (5.10). He was mentoring some other climbers who led P1 of Goliath (5.11) and at the end of the day he talked me into leading David (5.11 OW), which spanked me pretty good! After much struggling, I eventually managed to finish the climb without resorting to aid.

Technicolor Wall

The Whaleback (5.10)


The rolling flare.



Cool ripples. These made for interesting footholds & jamming features.



The sustained upper section. Wavy rock & a rolling flare added some fun!



Alf giving Peter a 'dynamic top rope belay'.



Peter climbing, dad wandering.



Peter climbing. He's getting this jamming thing down!


Badass Momma (5.10+ OW)


Alf leading shirtless!



Pete climbing, Alf belaying.


On the Up & Up (5.10)


A steep and beautiful fist crack. Crux is exiting the pod and then you climb a fun leaning crack.



Alf leading.



Alf leading. Perfect human pod. The crux is pulling the awkward roof to get out.



Alf leading.



Alf leading.



Alf leading.



Cracks here aren't nearly as buffed as on Super Crack Buttress. Still amazingly splitter!



Pete working the crux.



Pete in #3 Camalot territory.


David (5.11 OW)


Beginning the lead. (by Alf Randell)



Leading the easy part. I got spanked on the crux, which is the leaning section at the little roof (by Alf Randell)


The leaning section through the roof required some new OW moves for me. In the end I liebacked the edge with my arms (with some arm-barring to hold me in closer while I slid the cams), with one leg torqued inside the crack to keep myself from swinging out. I could then heel-toe with the outside leg as I pushed myself, belly-up, along the crack. There was no way to get your weight over your feet, so the upper half of this climb was very strenuous on the core & arms!

Trevor didn't know how to climb OWs, but he was strong enough that he just liebacked the entire zig-zag, looking fairly relaxed as he did it. So much for being proud of surviving my lead. There's nothing like seeing a 5.12 climber in action to deflate any ego I might have grown! :-P

Goliath (5.11)


The first pitch is 5.11 fingers and off hands-off fingers.



The first pitch is 5.11 fingers (top is in view). The second pitch is a 5.12 OW that tops out.



Trevor leading the 5.11 fingers P1. (by Alf Randell)



Off-fingers section was strenuous and insecure! My wombat paws had trouble fitting.


P1 of Goliath started out a little dirty but was a long and varied climb. With 20' of cl. 3-4 scrambling it could barely be top-roped with a 70m rope. Hand, fingers, liebacking an odd corner, back to off-fingers, then finishing with tight fingers, the climb was a solid workout! It was a good reminder of how sandstone is different than granite, as well, as at one point when I was trying to torque a toe on on the off-fingers section, the rock blew out. It made for a suddenly better toe jam, but it definitely got me thinking about what a shallowly placed cam would do!


Sunset below Technicolor Wall




Links

Continued: IC + Desert Tower Trip #2: Supercrack Buttress, Technicolor Wall, and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton Tower