Continued from: IC + Desert Tower Trip #2: Supercrack Buttress, Technicolor Wall, and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton Tower

Under: Indian Creek

IC Day 1

April 26, 2012

IC+Desert Tower with Dad & Pete Trip #2! Peter and I failed to meet up the first day due to a confusion over which message board to meet at, but Dad & I did manage to meet up with my friend Dirk Summers and Faith Hill. We climbed together at Supercrack Buttress, where Dirk and I each led Incredible Hand Crack (5.10). Dirk then led Binge & Purge (5.11), a strange lieback+OW climb. This last climb aggravated my recently strained Psoa, but it was worth it! Rain forced us back to camp early. That night Dirk introduced us to a local climbing guru, Alf Randell.

Supercrack Buttress

Me leading (by Jay Thomas)

Incredible Hand Crack (5.10)

Me leading (by Dirk Summers)

This climb was really fun. The lower section was a bit tight for good hand jams, but the roof was bomber. I'm weak in the arms, so I did get pretty tired on the roof, but the jams were solid enough that I just moved slowly, keeping my arms straight, and halfway through I slammed some solid rest jams and rested a bit. Nice and chill. The upper corner is MUCH easier than it looks from the ground, as there are many little edges to stem on and grab.

Binge & Purge (5.11 OW)

Binge & Purge (5.11), starts as a thin lieback before turning into a brutal squeeze chimney, then a more straightforward vertical to overhanging arm-bar offwidth in the upper half.
Dirk leading the lieback. Trusty Faith belays.
Dirk reaching the OW-squeeze. Hmm . . .
Dirk couldn't figure out how to get himself to fit through the inside of the squeeze, so he got squeezed outside!

The week before Indian Creek I had injured myself in the usually unusual "Mark fashion" when I was climbing at Sentinel Creek. On the last climb of the day, up the Tilted Mitten, Right, I was hanging off a knee jam in a corner when I noticed that the shoe on my trailing 'heel-toe' leg had come untied. While hanging on the knee jam I twisted around and leaned way down to grab the shoelaces when ::POP::! I felt something pop & crumple underneath my obliques.

As best as I could tell, I had popped something in my Psoa, as it only hurt to bend down on my left side, or lean into a high-step on my left side, and I would get sympathetic soreness in my lower back. It felt OK for continuing with my climbing plans for southern Utah, and as long as I didn't work left-side in, it wasn't aggravated too much.

Interesting lieback start (by Jay Thomas)
I also couldn't get through the squeeze (by Jay Thomas)

It turns out this OW is left-side in, but I just couldn't resist.

Straightforward arm-barring, leg-barring and heel-toeing that gets progressively harder as the crack overhangs. Fortunately at the end there are a couple of cheater holds

I flew up the climb fast and smooth, but I had trouble breathing against the pain in my back and ribs from aggravating my injury, but I think it was worth it :-)

Dirk going for round 2.
Dirk going for round 2.
Dirk going for round 2, rest at last!

Fortunately rain started as Dirk finished his second round, so I had a good excuse to recover from the day's climbing and pace myself for the trip!


Continued: Day 2: April 27, 2012 - Technicolor Wall

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