Continued from: IC + Desert Tower Trip #2: Supercrack Buttress, Technicolor Wall, and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton Tower
Under: Indian Creek
Me leading (by Jay Thomas)
Me leading (by Dirk Summers)
This climb was really fun. The lower section was a bit tight for good hand jams, but the roof was bomber. I'm weak in the arms, so I did get pretty tired on the roof, but the jams were solid enough that I just moved slowly, keeping my arms straight, and halfway through I slammed some solid rest jams and rested a bit. Nice and chill. The upper corner is MUCH easier than it looks from the ground, as there are many little edges to stem on and grab.
Binge & Purge (5.11 OW)
Binge & Purge (5.11), starts as a thin lieback before turning into a brutal squeeze chimney, then a more straightforward vertical to overhanging arm-bar offwidth in the upper half.
Dirk leading the lieback. Trusty Faith belays.
Dirk reaching the OW-squeeze. Hmm . . .
Dirk couldn't figure out how to get himself to fit through the inside of the squeeze, so he got squeezed outside!
The week before Indian Creek I had injured myself in the usually unusual "Mark fashion" when I was climbing at Sentinel Creek. On the last climb of the day, up the Tilted Mitten, Right, I was hanging off a knee jam in a corner when I noticed that the shoe on my trailing 'heel-toe' leg had come untied. While hanging on the knee jam I twisted around and leaned way down to grab the shoelaces when ::POP::! I felt something pop & crumple underneath my obliques.
As best as I could tell, I had popped something in my Psoa, as it only hurt to bend down on my left side, or lean into a high-step on my left side, and I would get sympathetic soreness in my lower back. It felt OK for continuing with my climbing plans for southern Utah, and as long as I didn't work left-side in, it wasn't aggravated too much.
Interesting lieback start (by Jay Thomas)
I also couldn't get through the squeeze (by Jay Thomas)
It turns out this OW is left-side in, but I just couldn't resist.
Straightforward arm-barring, leg-barring and heel-toeing that gets progressively harder as the crack overhangs. Fortunately at the end there are a couple of cheater holds
I flew up the climb fast and smooth, but I had trouble breathing against the pain in my back and ribs from aggravating my injury, but I think it was worth it :-)
Dirk going for round 2.
Dirk going for round 2.
Dirk going for round 2, rest at last!
Fortunately rain started as Dirk finished his second round, so I had a good excuse to recover from the day's climbing and pace myself for the trip!
Continued: Day 2: April 27, 2012 - Technicolor Wall