Continued from:
Little Cottonwood Canyon Trad (June, 2011)

Look at Me, Dad! Err . . . Actually, Don't! - A Climb Up Ancient Art & Other Utah Rocks

Under: Indian Creek

Indian Creek (November, 2011)

I've never climbed in Indian Creek, and I finally felt ready to tackle some of the 5.10 cracks in the area. While Pete & my main objective for the trip was to climb Ancient Art, we spent the first two days over Thanksgiving warming up to desert sandstone climbing at Indian Creek.
Why climb at Indian Creek first?

This is why.

Pete following Binou (5.9 in guidebook. Really 5.8)

Droool . . .
And a few of the climbs we did:

Generic Crack (5.9+)

P1 has 120' of sustained and steep jamming! Solid hands.

You can't hide from using proper jamming techniques at the Creek. I ran up Generic on lead in under 15 minutes. Peter took over an hour as he learned that while he could do some finger jams, he really didn't get the whole hand jamming thing.

Pete at the top! He drew blood, but it was worth it!
Rack used for Generic Crack. So much gold!

Twin Cracks (5.7)

Twin Cracks (5.9 in guidebook. Felt more like 5.7 to me.)

We climbed Twin Cracks, which had much easier hand jamming than Generic Crack. Here Pete got a better hang of the whole hand jamming thing. He should be better prepared for the next visit to the Creek!

Taking the Wombat finish. (by Jay Thomas)
Pete all grins as he starts to get the feel for hand jams.
Interesting P2 of Twin Cracks. Left & Right sides both like nice!
I still can't tell which looks better :-)

Super Crack (of the Desert) (5.10)

Leading Unnamed 5.9+. Nice liebacking. (by Jay Thomas)

There was a line on Super Crack, so we monkeyed around on an unnamed 5.6 offwidth and 5.9+ finger crack + lieback while we waited.

Pete following Unnamed 5.9+
Climber almost done leading Supercrack (5.10). 100' of sweet and steep jamming! To get a sense of the steepness, look at how the second rappel line trails down.

At last I took off. As I'm still new to leading 5.10s, I don't know why I thought it was a good idea to climb this route in front of my dad. Since all of the other climbers were pumping out and having to hang or aid on the upper crack, I was surprised to find the climbing onto the lower pedestal to be the crux. It was a lot harder than any 5.10a's I've done, so perhaps it was my first 5.10b lead?

I'm at the 20-25' section below the roof - all #2 Camalots for here.

The upper crack is more like 5.9 if you have good crack technique, as you can keep the weight off your jams and onto your feet. The biggest pump I got was attempting to clip the rope with nearly 100' of it hanging free below me. I learned quickly to place a piece high, move a couple more jams to keep the hand flexing & relaxing, then clip the rope to the piece with the hand that was not placing the cam, now at waist level. This allowed me to avoid hanging out too long and divide the pro placement & upper jam hang work between the two arms.

View from the top after 80' of glorious sustained hand & fist jamming.
Cleaning on rappel.
Nicely buffed crack of Supercrack. 100' of sustained jamming - no rests unless you can rest in the jams!
The nicely buffed interior of Supercrack in the #3 BD Camalot zone.


For the complete sets of photos, if you want to see larger versions of some of these photos or if you want to see any of the photo data, check out the albums on Picasa.

Continued: Look at Me, Dad! Err . . . Actually, Don't! - A Climb Up Ancient Art & Other Utah Rocks

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