Wilson Peak (Northwest Ridge) (Attempt)



September 5, 2004


I attempted this route over Labor Day weekend with Diggler. A big snowstorm passed through the day before and dumped a lot of extremely light snow in the Rockies (a few inches to a few feet deep on top of the rock). This snow made the loose rock on the route very problematic and dangerous. We turned around at the large notch before the ridge's intersection with a minor ridge as it looked like an epic would be likely if we pressed on.

This place looks awesome with snow cover. When I come back to re-climb the route, I'll have to make sure that it is a snow climb!
By Dirk:

Bizarre weather had deposited a layer of powder over everything a day before, making for shitty conditions (but beautiful views!)- snow with no measurable consistancy (a few inches to 2 ft thick) over terrible rock (at times basically near-vertical scree) does not make for ideal climbing.

Made it to 13,600' (perhaps having surpassed the route's crux- steep wall on opposite side of the prominent notch), but still had an appreciable way to go, and it was getting late (going back down that after the snow had started to harden up would have been bad!), so decided to admit defeat & try again another day.

A challenging, steep mountain composed of substandard rock, with exceptional views- it'll be exciting (again)!

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