Third Pillar of Dana (Regular Route)


After one failed attempt in 2012 and several attempts that never got underway (due to partners, thunderstorms, etc.) at long last I finally got to take a serious crack at Third Pillar of Dana! Steph was a perfect partner for a wonderful climb! We were up early, on the route early, and got back to the car just as the afternoon rain and lightning started, but we were still able to take our time and enjoy the climb. We got GoPro footage of the entire route for video project fun and celebrated 2 Pi day on top in an unusual way. The climb felt surprisingly easy to me after the easier grade alpine climbing we had done throughout the week - perhaps due to better beta and immaculate granite? However, the 5.10a lieback near the end gave me trouble. Next time hopefully I can do it better!

Looking down at Steph sitting on the exposed belay flake.

P4 projecting flake (5.8). 5.10a fingers pass it on the left, or a 5.8 squeeze climbs behind it on the right.

P4 projecting flake.

This is what you brought your offset brassies for. The piton at the 5.10b face crux is gone, but this placement is bomber. It would have been nice to be higher to better protect a fall moving to the side, so I added a blind cam placement a bit higher for my spider web of protection . . .

Steph following the 5th and final pitch of the Third Pillar of Dana.

Steph working the 5.9 fingers section on the 5th and final pitch of the Third Pillar of Dana.

There are many more photos of the climb, but I wanted to emphasize the video trip report for this climb. For more pictures and descriptive captions, see the Picasa Album.

GoPro Fun

So as I said, we got GoPro footage of the entire route, and I made a video trip report of the climb. The variations are below. Enjoy!

On this web page, you must first start the video before the gear icon appears.

Third Pillar of Dana Highlights

Our video trip report of the climb.

Third Pillar of Dana in Under 15 Min

An earlier trip report iteration. I don't like it quite as much, but it has the entire route shown in high speed.

Third Pillar of Dana - Moonpies and Recap

Just pure silliness.

Annotated Photos

Of course I can't let a trip report go by without these.
The stacked rocks on the left are where you descend. The Third Pillar of Dana tops out on the high point on the right.
Just after you leave the rib for the chute on the downclimb approach, traverse to this rock on your right. The notch in front leads to the shortcut descent gully, which is shorter and has more solid rock, though is cl. 3 instead of cl. 2.

Close up of the 5th class portion of P1 of Third Pillar of Dana from the shortcut approach gully.

Third Pillar of Dana seen from the base. You can see the optional first pitch on the left.

Top of Third Pillar of Dana.

Third Pillar of Dana from Tioga Pass Road a few miles up from Mobile Station. This is an extremely high resolution image, so I recommend you click to enlarge it and really enjoy the shot!