2013-08-24 - Pratt's Crack & Sheila w Sean Hermany
Sean Hermany and I had braved the Rim Fire to drive to the Eastern Sierra in hopes of climbing the Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk. Unfortunately the smoke was so thick in Bridgeport that we could taste it, and we couldn't see the stars! As a consolation climb, the next day we checked out Pine Creek, where I led the classic 5.9 OW, Pratt's Crack, and Sean lead the classic 5.10a, Sheila. Both climbs were striking lines on great rock, and full value and sustained for their 50m lengths.
Approaching the Pine Creek area. The two most popular climbs here are Pratt's Crack, which is a 5.9 OW that ascends the left corner, and Sheila, a 5.10a that ascends the right corner. The wide lieback ascends the diagonal flake, turning into a small chimey at the hanging flake.
Looking up 50 meters of fun on Pratt's Crack. It starts at a BD #6 size and only gets wider!
Looking down as I led Pratt's Crack.
Sean following Pratt's Crack.
Climbers rappelling on a neighboring climb.
Rack used to lead Pratt's Crack. The #4 Big Bro is optional as I discovered a small gear placement about 4-5 ft higher. A second #6 is also optional and mostly just nice to leave behind for piece of mind. A #9 Valley Giant would make the entire climbg very easily protected.
Looking up the striking twin dihedrals. Pratt's Ccrack is on the left while Sheila ascends the corner ahead.
Sean stemming wide after the thin fingers crux on Sheila. Looming above is the wide lieback and short chinmney.
Following the 5.10a thin fingers section.
Following up the thin seam into the wide lieback. Bring lots of thin gear for this route, and a #6 is HIGHLY recommended to protect the lieback. The crux of the lieback comes at the end and is physical and insecure.