Wide Climbs
Chimneys, Squeeze Chimneys & Offwidths

As I've progressed as a trad climber there has often been a particular type of climbing that I've focused on learning. For the last few years it has been crack climbing, but lately I've developed a taste for chimney and offwidth climbing. Since this type of climbing isn't popular in many climbing circles, such routes are not given much prominence in climbing books- if they are included at all. Many of those that are shown on topos are actually nothing more than slightly awkward wide cracks that don't require and advanced offwidth technique. 

The following is a list of climbs that require full chimney or offwidth technique with links to information about these climbs. I'm classifying these climbs by the technique required and NOT the geometry of the rock (e.g. If a route ascends a chimney but you use mostly faceholds inside, I'm not calling it a chimney climb). I'm considering the technique based off of my body geometry - what people with small hands might consider an OW I may have left out of the list since I can still do hand jams in them. As I complete climbs I'll make my own route page for the climb on my site. Most of these climbs are in areas that I frequent in California and Utah.

  *    Route followed/TRed
(5.x) Technique Rating
(5.x) Route Rating and/or Required Length if Different from Technique Rating
(XX)  Reference (WF = widefetish.com, MP = mountainproject.com, SP = summitpost.com, ST = supertopo.com or SuperTopo guide, R = Reid Guide.)
 #    Hardman training circuit?

My personal notes for Yosemite Wide climbs, to be integrated later:

List still being worked out. 
Still considering 

Hardman Training Circuit:

Route () (MP()
Route ()() (SP)(MP)(WF)(ST) ()


Bay Area Gyms
  • Belmont Chimney* (5.6-5.7?) (PG Belmont)
Yosemite Valley
  • Regular Route (P1&2) (5.6) (Reed's Pinnacle) (ST)
  • Royal Arches (P1) (5.6)
  • Arrowhead Spire (P1) (5.6)(5.6, 2P) (Arrowhead Spire)  (ST)
  • The Enema (P1) (5.6) (Cookie Cliff) (ST)
  • Churchbowl Chimney (5.6+) (Church Bowl Area)
  • Doggie Diversions (P1) (5.6-5.7) (Camp 4 Wall) (ST)(MP)
  • The Cow, Right (P2) (5.7) (Glacier Point Apron) (Flared Corner)
  • Secret Storm (5.7)(5.10a) (Camp 4 Wall) (WF)(MP)
  • Inner Reaches (5.7, 2P) (Five and Dime Cliff) (MP)
  • The Slack, Center (5.7)(5.10d)  (El Cap Base) (Can TR from Sacherer, 5.10a OW) (ST)
  • Knob Hill Ropest (5.8) (Knob Hill) (MP)
  • Trial by Fire (P1) (5.8)(5.8, 3P) (Royal Arches) (ST)
  • Cid's Embrace (5.8) (Camp 4 Wall) (MP)(ST - topo only)
  • Tilted Mitten, Right Side (5.8, 2P) (Sentinel Creek Area) (MP)
  • Churchbowl Terrace (5.8) (Church Bowl Area) (Flared Chimney) (ST - topo only)
  • The Cookie, Right Side (5.8)(5.9, 2P) (Cookie Cliff) (ST)
  • Entrance Exam (5.8, 2P)(5.9, 2P) (Arch Rock) (ST)
  • Reed's Pinnacle Left (P1) (5.8) (5.10a, 2P) (Reed's Pinnacle) (MP)(WF)
  • Henley Quits (5.8)(5.10a) (Camp 4 Wall) (MP)(ST)
  • Gripper (P1) (5.8)(5.10b, 3P) (Arch Rock)(Chimney) (ST)
  • Elevator Shaft (5.8R) (Cookie Cliff) (ST)
  • Moby Dick, Left (5.9, 1-2P) (El Cap Base) (Flared Chimney) (WF)(MP)(ST - topo only)
  • The Buttocks (5.6) (5.9) (Camp 4 Wall) (MP)
  • Independent Route (5.9) (5.10b, 3P) (Reed's Pinnacle - Independence Pinnacle Left) (MP)
  • Midterm (5.9) (5.10b) (Arch Rock) (Polished Chimney) (ST)
  • English Breakfast Crack (P1) (5.9)(5.10c, 2P) (Arch Rock) (ST)
  • Reeds Pinnacle Direct (P3) *  (5.10a R) (Reed's Pinnacle) (ST)
  • 10.96 (5.10d) (?) (Flared Chimney) (WF)
Tahoe Area
  • Harding's Other Chimney (5.6) (Phanton Spires- Middle Spire) (MP)(ST)
  • Harding's Chimney (5., xP7) (Sugarloaf - East Face) (MP)(ST)
  • Scheister (5.7, xP) (Sugarloaf - East Face) (MP)(ST)
Joshua Tree
  • Mike's Books (5.6, 2P) (5.6 & 5.8 var) (Intersection Rock) 

Squeeze Chimneys

Bay Area Gyms
  • Flaring Squeeze* (5.9)(5.10a lieback) (Chimney tapering to OW w/ a lieback finish) (Touchstone Mission Cliffs)
Yosemite Valley
    • Joy (5.6) (Swan Slab Area) (I named this route since I couldn't find an existing name) (ST - topo only)
    • Swan Slab Squeeze (5.6-5.7) (Swan Slab Area) (barely included. Really?) (ST)
    • Churchbowl Terrace* (5.6) (5.8-5.10a) (Church Bowl Area) (squeeze var. on lower section) 
    • Lancelot (5.7) (5.9)  (Camp 4 Wall) (MP)(ST - topo only)
    • Center Route (P1) (5.6) (5.7) (Reed's Pinnacle) (ST)
    • Uncle Fanny (5.7) (Church Bowl) (ST)
    • Inner Reaches (5.7) (Five & Dime Cliff) (MP)
    • The Remnant-Right Side (5.7) (Reed's Pinnacle - The Remnant Flake) (MP)
    • Regular Route (P3) (5.8) (Reed's Pinnacle) (ST)
    • The Slack, Right (5.8, 3P)(5.10d) (El Cap Base) (ST)
    • ??? Unknown (5.9) (Cookie Cliff)(TR!) (ST - topo only)
    • Cookie Center (5.9) (Cookie Cliff) ST Forum - 45 (same as above?)
    • Moby Dick, Left (5.9, 1-2P) (El Cap Base) (WF)(MP)(ST - topo only)
    Tahoe Area
    • Scheister (5.7, xP) (Sugarloaf - East Face) (MP)(ST)
    Joshua Tree
    • Bat Crack (5.6, 2P) (Intersection Rock)
    • The Waterchute* (5.10b) (Intersection Rock)


    Bay Area Gyms
    • Finger Crack Offwidth* (5.9+) (5.11a finger crack finish) (PG Presidio)
    • Fist Crack Offwidth* (5.10b?) (5.5 fist crack finish) (PG Presidio)
    • Belmont Offwidth (?? slick as hell & couldn't finish) (PG Belmont)
    • Flaring Squeeze* (5.9)(5.10a lieback) (Chimney tapering to OW w/ a lieback finish) (Touchstone Mission Cliffs)
    Yosemite Valley
      • Pharaohs Beard (5.8) ST Forum - 262
      • Bongs Away, Left (5.8) (Reed's Pinnacle) (MP)(ST)
      • Bongs Away, Right (5.8) (Reed's Pinnacle) (bushy, mungy OW/Chimney) (ST - topo only)
      • Manual Labor (5.8, V0+) (Camp 4 Boulders) (MP)(WF)
      • Tilted Mitten, Right Side (5.8, 2P) (Sentinel Creek Area) (MP)
      • The Slack, Left (5.8)(5.10d)  (El Cap Base)(Can TR from Sacherer, 5.10a OW) (ST)
      • Doggie Diversions (5.9, 2P) (Camp 4 Wall) (MP)(ST)
      • Peter Pan (5.9) (El Cap Base) ST Forum - 100
      • Absolutely Free, Right (5.9) ST Forum - 129
      • Worst Error, Left (5.9) ST Forum - 344
      • Doggie Do (5.10a) (Camp 4 Wall) (WF)(ST)
      • Henley Quits (5.10a) (Camp 4 Wall) (MP)(ST)
      • Secret Storm (5.10a) (Camp 4 Wall) (WF)(MP)
      • Midterm (5.9)(5.10b) (Arch Rock) (ST)
      • Independent Route (5.9) (5.10b, 3P) (Reed's Pinnacle - Independence Pinnacle Left) (MP)
      • English Breakfast Crack (P1) (5.9)(5.10c, 2P) (Arch Rock) (ST)
      • Worst Error, Right (5.10a) ST Forum - Yellow Meyers Guide
      • Rixon's East Chimney (5.10a) ST Forum - 132
      • Lost Arrow Chimney (5.10a) ST Forum - 158
      • Hourglass, Right (5.10a) ST Forum - 93
      • Crack of Doom (5.10a) ST Forum - 346
      • Crack of Despair (5.10a) ST Forum - 346
      • Bongs Away, Center* (5.10a) (Reed's Pinnacle) (ST - topo only)
      • The Cookie, Left  (5.10a, 3P) (Cookie Cliff) (WF)
      • Copper Penny (5.10a) (Five and Dime Cliff) (MP)(ST)
      • Gollum, Left Side* (5.10a) (El Cap Base) (WF)(ST)
      • Sacherer Cracker (5.10a) (El Cap Base) (MP)(ST)
      • Hand Job (5.10a) (Below Reed's Pinnacle Tunnel) (WF)
      • This and That (5.10a) (Cascade Falls) (WF)
      • Jaw Bone (5.10a) (Finger Lickin' Area) (WF)
      • Chingando*  (5.10a) (Reed's Pinnacle - Iota Flake Left) (WF)(MP)(ST)
      • Reed's Pinnacle Left (5.10a, 2P) (Reed's Pinnacle) (MP)(WF)
      • Reeds Pinnacle Direct (P3)*  (5.10a R) (Reed's Pinnacle) (ST)
      • Mongolian Clusterfuck (5.10a R) (Below Reeds Pinnacle Tunnel) (WF)
      • The Remnant-Left Side*  (5.10b) (Reed's Pinnacle - The Remnant Flake) (MP)
      • Ahab*  (5.10b) (El Cap Base) (MP)(ST)
      • The Slack, Left (5.10b) (El Cap Base) (MP)
      • Mental Block (P2) (5.10a/b)(5.10c, III, 5P) (Sentinel Creek Area) (WF)(MP)
      • Peter Pan Left (5.10b/c) (El Cap Base) ST Forum - 100
      • Meat Grinder (5.10b/c, 1-3P) (Cookie Cliff) (MP)(ST)
      • Generator Crack* (5.10c) (Generator Station) (MP)(ST)
      • Edge of Night (5.10c) (Camp 4 Wall) ST Forum - 135
      • Narrow Escape (5.10c) ST Forum - 28
      • Twilight Zone (5.10d) (Cookie Cliff) (ST)
      • Cream (5.11a) (Below Wawona Tunnel W Side) (WF)
      • Bad Ass Momma (5.11d) (Somewhere near Royal Arches) (SP)(WF)
      Tahoe Area
        • Hair Shirt (5.8+) (Donner Pass - Snowshed Wall) (MP)
        • Traveler Buttress (P2) (5.9, 4P) (Lover's Leap - Main Wall) (SP)(MP)(ST)
        Joshua Tree
        • Filch (5.5) (Trashcan Rock)
        • Tumbling Rainbow (5.9) (WF) (MP)
        • Championship Wrestling (5.9) (WF) (MP)
        • Left Baskerville Crack (5.9?) (5.10b) (WF) (MP)
        • Jumar of Flesh (5.9+) (WF) (MP) 
        • This Ain't No Party (5.9+) (WF) 
        • Couldn't Wait (5.10a) (WF) (MP)
        • Modern Warfare (5.10a) (WF) (MP)
        • The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly (5.10a/b) (WF)(MP) 
        • La Bella Katchina (5.10a/b) (WF) (MP)
        • Sixpack Crack (5.10b) (WF) (MP)
        • Between a Rock and a Hard Place (5.10b) (WF) (MP)
        • Kamikaze (5.10c) (WF) (MP)
        • One Armed Giant (5.10d) (WF) (MP)
        • Rubberfat Syndrome (5.10?) (5.11a)(TR) (WF) (MP)
        • Comfortably Numb (5.11) (can TR) (WF) (MP
        • Throbbing Gristle (5.12a/b) (WF) (MP)
        Wasatch Range (Utah)
        • Crescent Crack (P2) (5.7) (MP)(SP) (Crescent Crack Buttress)
        • Trench Warfare (5.12d) (Video)


        http://www.valleygiant.com/  -  Valley Giants site

        Wyde Climbs