Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs


This is the list of climbs from Fred Beckey's 2012 book of his 100 favorite climbs in North America, including some other climbs of notes in the areas (listed as sub-listings of the nearest 'official' route). His book is a wonderful compilation of photos, route descriptions, and nicely done hand drawn topos. I have marked off the climbs I have done and have linked them to my experiences doing those climbs.

Pacific Northwest

  • Mt Rainier, Kautz Glacier (II+ alpine)
  • Mt Rainier, Ptarmigan Ridge (IV alpine, cl. 4-5)
  • Mt Index, North Peak (III, 5.5)
  • Mt Stuart, West Ridge (II-III, 5.6)
  • Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space (III, 5.9)
  • Forbidden Peak, East Ridge (II-III, 5.8, 8P)
  • Mt Goode, Northeast Buttress (III+, 5.5)
  • Inspiration Peak, East Ridge (III, 5.9)
  • Mt Fury, North Buttress (III-IV, cl. 5 & steep snow)
  • Mt Baker, North Ridge (III+ alpine)
  • Mt Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys (II-III, cl. 4)
  • Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress (V, 5.9+, 16P above glacier bypass)
  • South Early Winter Spire, East Buttress (IV, 5.9+ A1 or 5.11-, 9P)
    • Liberty Bell, Northwest Face (5.9, 4P)
  • Mt Hood, Yocum Ridge (IV, alpine)
  • Smith Rock, Zebra to Zion (III, 5.10a)
    • Smith Rock, Monkey Face, The Pioneer Route (5.7, A1)
  • Mt Shasta, Hotlum Glacier (II-III alpine)

Alaska

  • Mt Deborah, S Ridge (AK5)
  • Mt McKinley, Northwest Buttress (AK4, cl. 4-5)
  • Mooses Tooth, Ham and Eggs Couloir (IV alpine, 5.9 & maybe A1)
  • Mt Seattle (AK3)

British Columbia Coast Mountains

  • Squamish, Squamish Buttress (IV, 5.10c)
  • Squamish, Angel's Crest (IV, 5.10c)
  • Squamish, Snake (III, 5.9+)
    • Squamish, Rock On (?, 6P)
    • St. Vitus Dance (5.8-5.9)
    • Alpha Mtn, E Ridge (see Alpine Select)
    • Ottarasko Mtn, W Face (?)
  • Golden Klattasine, West Buttress (IV-V, 5.9 & A1)
  • Mt Waddington, Southeast Chimney (IV, 5.7)
    • Claw Peak (see Waddington Guide)
  • Mt Monarch (IV alpine)
    • Mt Jacobsen, Northeast Buttress (see Exploring Coast Mountains on Skis)
  • Kates Needle (AK3+)

Canadian Rockies, Selkirks, & Bugaboos

  • Mt Assiniboine (II+, 5.4)
    • Mt Queen Mary, Northeast Face
    • Stanley Peak, North Face (see Select Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies)
  • Mt Louise, Kaine Route (III+, 5.6-5.7)
  • Eisenhower Tower, Dragon's Back Route (II-III, 5.5)
  • Mt LeFroy (II-III alpine)
  • Mt Victoria, Southeast Ridge (II+, cl. 4)
    • Mt Patterson, East Ridge
  • Mt Athabasca, Silverhorn (III alpine)
    • Mt Hooker, Northeast Face (?)
  • Mt Edith Cavell, North Face (IV+, 5.7)
  • Oubliette Mountain, East Buttress (IV, 5.7)
  • Mt Robson, Kain Face (IV alpine)
  • Adamant Mountain, South Buttress (IV, 5.7+)
    • East Peak of the Gothics, Southwest Face (see Selkirks North)
  • Ironman, Southwest Buttress (IV, 5.7 A2 or 5.10b)
  • Mt Sir Sandford, Northwest Ridge (III, cl. 4)
  • Mt Sir Donald, Northwest Ridge (III, 5.4)
  • Bugaboo Spire, South Ridge (Kain Route) (II-III, 5.6+)
  • Snowpatch Spire, Snowpatch Route (III-IV, 5.8)
  • Snowpatch Spire, East Face, Beckey-Mather Route (VI, 5.8, A2/A3, 16P)
    • Snowpatch Spire, Southwest Corner (aka. Surf's Up) (5.9)
    • Pigeon Spire, West Ridge (5.4)
  • South Howser Tower, West Buttress, Beckey-Chouinard Route (V, 5.10-, 22P)
  • Gimli Peak, South Ridge (IV, 5.10a)

High Rockies

  • Grand Teton, Lower Exum Ridge (III, 5.8)
    • Disappointment Peak, Irene's Arete (III, 5.8+/5.9/5.9+/5.10)
    • Teepe Pillar, Direct East Face (5.7)
  • Grand Teton, North Ridge (IV, 5.8)
  • Mt Owen, Crescent Arete (III, 5.7)
  • Mt Moran, C.M.C. Route (III, 5.5)
  • Musembeah Pk, West Buttress (IV, 5.8+ to 5.9+)
  • Fremont Peak, West Buttress (IV, 5.10, 9P)
  • Pingora Peak, South Buttress (II, 5.6 or 5.8)
  • Warrior I, Northeast Face (IV, 5.9)
  • Sharks Nose, Southwest Face (III, 5.8)
    • Lost Temple Spire, North Prow (IV, 5.11a, A2)
  • Cathedral Lakes Peak, Orion's Reflection (V, 5.10, A2)
  • Elephant's Perch, The Beckey Direct (IV-V, 5.11a or 5.11b. Original is 5.9 A2 or 5.11+)
  • Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Thumb (III, 5.9+)
  • Lone Peak, West Face, Triple Overhangs (III, 5.9 A2 or 5.10a)
    • Question Mark Wall (?)
  • The Flatirons, Third Flatiron (II, 5.4)
  • Eldorado Canyon, Ruper (III, 5.8+)
    • Eldorado Canyon, Yellow Spur (III, 5.10a)
  • Lumpy Ridge, J-Crack (II-III 5.10a)
    • Lumpy Ridge, Pear Buttress (II, 5.8)
    • Lumpy Ridge, Melvin's Wheel (II, 5.8+)
  • Lumpy Ridge, Mainliner (III, 5.9)
  • Hallett Peak, Culp-Bossier Route (III, 5.8)
  • Spearhead, Syke's Sickle (IV, 5.9+, 8P)
  • Longs Peak, The Diamond, D7 (V, 5.7 A2 or 5.11d)
  • Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Arete (III, 5.7)

Sierra Nevada

  • Lone Pine Peak, South Face (V, 5.7, A1, 13P)
  • Lone Pine Peak, Bastille Buttress (IV+. 5.10 A1 or 5.11 A0)
  • Whitney Portal Buttress (IV, 5.10b, A2)
  • Day Needle, East Buttress (IV, 5.8 A2 or 5.9+)
  • Mt Whitney, East Buttress (III, 5.7)
  • Mt Russell, Fishhook Arete (III-IV, 5.9)
    • Norman Clyde Peak, Firebird Ridge (IV, 5.9)
  • Thunderbolt Peak (II, cl. 4)
    • Mt Humphreys (various routes)
    • Bear Creek Spire, Northeast Ridge (II-III, 5.5)
  • Cathedral Peak, Southeast Buttress (II, 5.6)
    • Stately Pleasure Dome, South Crack (II, 5.8R)
  • DAFF, West Crack (III, 5.9)
  • Fairview Dome, Lucky Streaks (IV, 5.10c)
    • Lembert Dome, Crying Time Again (5.9R or 5.10a)
    • Mt Conness, West Ridge (IV, 5.6)
    • Lovers Leap, The Line (II, 5.9)
  • Calaveras Dome, Sands of Time (IV, 5.9+)
  • Half Dome, Snake Dike (III, 5.7)
  • Washington Column, South Face (V, 5.8 to 5.10a, C1+)
    • Serenity Crack & Sons of Yesterday (IV, 5.10d)
    • Middle Cathedral Rock, Central Pillar of Frenzy (III, 5.9)
    • North Dome, South Face (III, 5.8)
  • Charlotte Dome, South Face (III+, 5.8+)
    • Ericsson Crag Three, Vinland (IV, 5.9)
  • Angel Wings, Wings Over Sequoia (V 5.9, A3)
  • Warlock Needle, South Face (III-IV, 5.9+ or 5.10c)
    • Witch Needle, Innersanctum (see Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: The Needles Area - 5.9)
  • Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope (III, 5.9, 6P)

Southwest Desert

  • Castleton Tower, North Chimney (II-III, 5.9+)
  • Kingfisher Tower, Colorado Northeast Ridge (IV, 5.8, A2)
    • Independence Monument, Otto's Route (see Desert Rock: Moab to Colorado National Monument)
  • Zion Canyon, Touchstone Wall (IV-V, 5.8 A2 or 5.10 A1)
  • Zion Canyon, Prodigal Son (IV-V, 5.5-5.8, A2)
  • Granite Mountain, The Classic (II-III, 5.8)
  • Cochise Stronghold, What's My Line? (II, 5.7 A0 or 5.10c)
  • Cochise Stronghold, Moby Dick (III, 5.8+)IV, 5.10
    • Cochise Stronghold, Warpath (?)
  • Red Rocks, Frogland (III, 5.8)
  • Red Rocks, Dream of Wild Turkeys (IV, 5.10-)
  • Red Rocks, Crimson Chrysalis (IV, 5.9)
    • Red Rocks, Rose Tower, Olive Oil (II, 5.7R)
    • Red Rocks, Pine Creek Canyon, Dark Shadows (II, 5.8)
  • Red Rocks, Black Orpheus (IV, 5.10)
  • Tahquitz Rock, Whodunnit (III, 5.9)
  • Tahquitz Rock, The Open Book (III, 5.9)
    • Tahquitz Rock, Fingertrip (5.7-MP)
    • Tahquitz Rock, Traitor Horn (5.8-MP)

Appalachian Mountains & Mexico

  • Looking Glass Rock, The Nose (North Carolina) (II, 5.8)
  • Mt Washington, Pinnacle Gully (New Hampshire) (III, WI3)
  • El Gran Trono Blanco, South Face, Baile del Sol (Baja Califonia, Mexico) (IV, 5.11c, 11P)
  • Pico de Orizaba, Ruta Norte (II, alpine)