Aid & Big Walls (Select)

The following is a select list of aid climbs and big wall climbs, mostly in California. It is a personalized list for progressing into aid & big wall climbing and I may add to it over time.

  *    Route Led on TR
  **   Route Followed
  Ax   Old Aid Rating. Route normally done free now at (5.x) grade.





Practice Aid Circuit:

Big Walls

The following is a list of major aid & big wall climbs that I hope to climb. They are listed in the expected order of progression.
  • South Face of Washington Column (V, 5.8, C1, 10P)
  • Leaning Tower (West Face) (V, 5.7, C2F, 11P)
  • Skull Queen (Washington Column) (V, 5.8, C2, 13P)
  • The Prow (Washington Column) (V, 5.6, C2F, 12P)
  • Regular Northwest Corner (Half Dome) (VI, 5.8, C1, 24P)
  • The Nose (El Capitan) (VI, 5.9, C2, 31P)
  • Salathe Wall (El Capitan) (VI, 5.9, C2, 35P)
  • Mount Chamberlin (13,169') - North Face (V, 5.10a, A2) - Mt Whitney Area
  • Angel Wings (10,252') - South Arete Direct (V, 5.9, A3) - Kaweah Area

   
   


Mixed Free & Aid Climbs

The following is a list of major climbs that are done mostly free with some sections of aid. They are listed in the expected order of progression.
  • Lost Arrow Spire Tip (II, 5.7-5.10, C2, 2-3P)
  • Moonflower Buttress (IV, 5.10a, C1)
  • Blacksmith Peak (11,680') - Northwest Face (III, 5.8, A2)(5.1x) - Sawtooth Area
  • Ancient Art (5,450') - Stolen Chimney (III, 5.9, C0, 4 pitches) - Southern Utah
  • Mt Moran - Direct South Buttress (IV, 5.8, C1F)(V+ if going to summit) - Wyoming
  • Liberty Bell Mountain - Liberty Crack (IV-V, 5.9, C2F, 12 pitches) - Washington Cascades
  • Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress (V, 5.9, A2, TD+) - British Columbia
  • The Incredible Hulk - Positive Vibrations (V, 5.10, A2)(5.1x) - Sawtooth Area
  • The Incredible Hulk - Sun Spot Dihedral (V, 5.10, A2)(5.1x) - Sawtooth Area
  • Fisher Towers - The Titan (IV, 5.8, A3) - Southern Utah
  • Middle Triple Peak - East Buttress (VI, 5.9, A3) - Alaska. Maybe want to do?
  • Mt Huntington - West Face (VI, 5.9, A2, WI3-4 (70o)) - Alaska. Maybe want to do?

   
   


Training Aid Climbs

The following is a list of aid climbs to be done in preparation for the Big Wall climbs. Some of these are mixed free & aid climbs. They are listed in the expected order of progression.


Dog Dik Cliff
  Pink Pussycat A1 1 pitch R(36)  
Kat Pinnacle
  Northwest Corner 5.7 A2 1 pitch R(40)  
  Southwest Corner 5.7 A3+ 1 pitch R(40)  
The Cookie Cliff
  Coffin Nail A3+ 1 pitch R(44)  
  The Stigma (P1) C2 1 pitch R(45)  
  The Stigma A3 2 pitches R(45)  
Pat & Jack Pinnacle
  Sunblast A2+ 1 pitch R(53)  
  The Tube C1? (5.11a) 1 pitch R(53)  
El Capitan, SW Base Area
  Pacific Ocean Wall (P1) (move to SE Base) C1 1 pitch STRTN(16)  
  La Escuela C1 1 pitch ST(75,78); STRTN(15)  
  Freeblast 5.8, C2 10 pitches STRTN(22)  
  Dihedral Wall C2+ or A1 2 pitches STRTN(19)  
El Capitan, SE Base Area
  North America Wall (P1) C2 1 pitch STRTN(17)  
  El Cap Tree 5.7, C2 5 pitches STRTN(18)  
Middle Brother, Base
  Rixon's Pinnacle: Direct South Face 5.7-5.9 C2 7 pitches R(132)  
  The Folly: Left Side 5.9 A3 8 pitches R(133)  
Five Open Books, 2nd Tier
  Mischief 5.8 A2 ? pitches R(150)  
Lower Yosemite Falls, East ?
  Ten Years After C1 (5.10d) 1 pitch References  
Geek Towers
  Right Side 5.10 A2 ? pitches R(157)  
Lost Arrow Spire
  Lost Arrow Spire Tip 5.8 C2 3 pitches R(160)  
  Lost Arrow Chimney 5.10a A2 to rim ? pitches R(158)  
Church Bowl
  Church Bowl Tree C1 (5.10a/b) 1 pitch ST(117); R(166)  
  More Balls Than Brains A3- 1 pitch R(166)  
  Bishop’s Balcony 5.5 A3 2 pitches? R(167)  
Half Dome
  Regular Northwest Face Route V 5.9 C2 ? pitches R(211-121)  
Staircase Falls Area
  Circuit Breaker C1 (5.11b) 1 pitch R(242?)  
  Short Circuit C2? () 1 pitch R(242?)  
  Old A2 A2 1 pitch R(242)  
  Old A5 A3 1 pitch R(242)  
  Old A3 A3+ 1 pitch R(242)  
Housekeeping Area
  Le Conte Boulder Bolt Ladder C1 1 pitch References  
  Le Conte Boulder Crack C1? 1 pitch References  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Region
  Route Rating 1 pitch References  
  Route Rating 1 pitch References  

 

 

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