Royal Arches

5.7 A0 (or 5.10b), III

Length: 16 pitches, 1,400'
Type: Trad
Technique: Chimney, Crack, Friction

  • June 25th, 2011 w/ Chris Terry. 5:40 to climb, 3 hrs to rappel. Photos, Trip Report
    • Led: P1 (5.6), P5 (5.7), P6 (5.5), P9 (5.5), P11 (5.6), P12 (5.7), P15 (5.3)


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Protection & Other Gear
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Permits, Strategy, etc.
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    • Pitch 1: Blah blah blah

        • P1 (5.6)(Led) - Fun chimney! Slick. Trail pack from PAS. Pitch goes pretty fast.
        • P2 (5.5)(Simul-Climb-Followed) - Hiking with a few short harder sections. Take in about 1/2-2/3 rope w/ a mountaineers coil atop P1. Could simul-climb entirely or give a quick belay on the 2 cruxes.
        • P3 (cl.4)(Simul-Climb-Followed) - Hiking
        • P4 (cl.3)(Simul-Climb-Followed) - Hiking
        • P5 (5.7)(Led) - First 10 ft are thin in pin scars and hard to protect (I used a pink tricam in a flaring pocket). Best to spot & belay this short section (15-20 ft) then resume simul-climbing on 3rd class terrain.
        • P6 (5.5)(Led, linked w/ P5) - Getting harder.
        • P7 (5.6)(Followed) - Technically harder than last pitch but much more secure. Good to simul-climb from here to P10 pendulum w/ 1/2-full rope out.
        • P8 (5.6)(Followed, linked w/ P7)
        • P9 (5.6)(Led)
        • P10 (5.4, A0)(Followed) - More of a tension traverse than a pendulum. Easy/safe to lead 5.10b section w/ pendulum line, or lower out by hand from above while traversing left. Traverse has scarce pro & can be wet. Put pro near high point for follower!
        • P11 (5.6)(Led) - If linking w/ P12, DO NOT go to the tree. It is wet & you can't thread the rope under the branches like you might think. Take the short & wide 5.9 crack variation to the left. A #4 C4 could protect it better & make it easier to climb than using a #3.
        • P12 (5.7)(Led, linked w/ P11) - Fun! Do the 5.7 variation! Step over from high up above the 5.9 wide crack variation.
        • P13 (5.5)(Followed) - Good to simul-climb from here to rappel anchors with full rope out. Stay low from the tree for the traverse & find the undercling for pro & solid hands.
        • P14 (5.4)(Followed, linked w/ P13) - Easy but few pro opportunities.
        • P15 (5.3)(Led) - Easy but more friction & few pro opportunities.
        • Rappel Descent
          • R1
          • R2
          • R3
          • R4
          • R5
          • R6
          • R7

    More Photos