2010 Climbing Log

I figured this could be a nice way to keep track of what I climbed, when, with whom, and in what style. I'm also noting any noteworthy training. Making it public can make it easier for friends and prospective partners to see at what level I'm currently climbing and the type of climbing I'm doing.

Ratings & grades are those encountered on the route but may not be the official rating.


Table of Contents




Partners

January

Top

January 11 - Mount Shasta - Sargent's Ridge (cl. 3 mixed with rime, 50o snow) - with Tom Bennett

Various - Lake Tahoe Area - Skiing & Ice Climbing - with Tom Bennett 

February

Top

February 15 - Mount Shasta - Green Butte Ridge (cl. 3, 50o snow), descended Avalanche Gulch- with Guy Brestler
Various - Lake Tahoe Area - Skiing & ice climbingwith Tom Bennett & Guy Bresler 


March

Top

Various - Lake Tahoe Area - Skiing & ice climbing- with Tom Bennett & Guy Bresler
March 26-28 - Mount Shasta - with Tom Bennett. RIP, my dear friend. May your spirit of kindness and enthusiasm live on in all of those you've touched.  




April

Top

Tom's funeral & celebration of life in Vancouver, B.C. Recovery from frostbite,  bruised tailbone & immersion foot.

May

Top

May 7 - Yosemite Valley - Rock Climbing - with Kenneth Davenport & Dirk Summers
  • Swan Slabs
    • Unnamed Crack (5.9)(TR)
    • Swan Slab Chimney (5.5)(Led)
    • Oak Tree Flake (5.6)(Led)
    • Hanging Flake (5.6)(Led)
    • Claude's Delight (5.7)(Followed Kenneth)
    • Lena's Lieback (5.9)(TR)
    • Goat for It (5.10a)(TR)
 

May 8 - Yosemite Valley - Rock Climbing- with Kenneth Davenport & Dirk Summers
  • El Capitan Base
    • Pine Line (5.7)(Led)
    • La Cosita Left (5.7)(Kenneth)
    • La Cosita Left (5.9 offwidth var.)(TR)
 

 

May 15, 2010 - Mt Shasta Camp Retrieval - with climbing ranger Eric White
  • s






 

May 22-23 - CHAOS Winter Mountainteering Clinic - Lassen Beginner Trip
  • d

 

May 30 - Mt Humphreys - East Arete (III 5.4) (DNF) - with Steve Byrne 
  • stat


May 31 - False White Mtn - SE Slopes (25-30o ski descent) - with Steve Byrne 
  • stats

 



June

Top

June 20 - Palisade Traverse (IV, 5.6R/5.7, A0) (DNF - Time, not enough soloing (my bad)) with Steph Abegg
  • Trip Report
    • Day 1:
    • Day 2:
      • Thunderbolt Peak - N Couloir (35o neve, cl. 5)(no summit block)
      • Starlight Peak - Traverse from Thunderbolt (II 5.6)(simul-climb)
      • North Palisade - Traverse from Starlight (II 5.7)(simul-climb), descended U-notch (35o neve)
    • Day 3:


June - Lover's Leap - Rock Climbing- with Kenneth Davenport
  • The Hogsback
    • Knapsack Crack (5.5, 3 pitches)(Led)
    • Manic Depressive Direct (5.5, 2 pitches)(Led)
    • Wave Rider (5.6R)(TR)
    • Unnamed (5.8R)(TR)
  • Lower Buttress  
    • The Groove (5.8, 2 pitches)(Followed)
 

 


July

Top

July 10 - Death Ride - Cycling - with Joel Wilson
  • 123 miles, 15,000 ft of gain, 10 hrs riding & 12.5 hrs total

 

July 17 - Mt Robinson - West Ridge (cl. 3-4) - with Vitaliy Musiyenkio 


July 18-19 - Thunderbolt Peak - NW Ridge (IV 5.5), Summit Block (A0) - with Vitaliy Musiyenkio 
  • Trip Report
    • Day 1:   ? pitches
    • Day 2:     ? pitches
      • descended underhill couloir (rapped)

 

July 31 - Tenaya Pk - NW Buttress (II 5.7 var.) - with Chris Terry, Joel Bernier, & David Millar
  • Stats
    • led & simul-climed w/ Chris    ? pitches
    • Joel soloed, David soloed



August

Top

August 1 - Yosemite - Tuolumne Meadows Cragging - with Chris Terry
  • Pywiack Dome
    • Aquaknobby (II 5.9/5.8R)
      • Led P1 (5.6R) & P3 (5.8 crack)
      • Followed P2 (5.9/5.8R) - bad pendulum for the follower on the R section!
  • Galen's Crack Area
    • Galen's Crack (5.10c)(TR) - Offwidth


August 6-9 - Palisade Crest - South Ridge (II 5.8) & Traverse (III 5.6) (DNF - weather) - with Dirk Summers 
  • Day 1:
  • Day 2: (simul-climb)   ? pitches
  • Day 3:

 

August 14 - 2010 Sierra Challenge Day 9
  • Stats
    • Colosseum Mtn - N Ridge (cl. 3), descended SW Slopes (cl. 1)
    • Cedric Wright - NE Ridge (cl. 3), descended SE slopes (cl. 2)
    • Perkins Pk - S Ridge (cl. 2)(DNF - Time, just peakbagging until it got late)
 

 

August 15 - 2010 Sierra Challenge Day 10 with Vitaliy Musiyenkio & Dan Seibert
  • Stats
    • Mt Morgenson - N Ridge (cl. 2-3)
    • Tunnabora Pk - SW Slope (cl. 2-3)
    • The Cleaver - SW Face / NW Ridge (cl. 3-4)
 

 

August 21 Rosy Finch-Pyramid Pk Traverse 
  • Stats
    • Rosy Finch Pk - N Ridge (cl. 3-4)
    • Pyramid Pk - Traverse from Rosy Finch (cl. 3-4), E Ridge (cl. 4), descended W Ridge (cl. 3)
 



August 22 - Bear Creek Spire - NE Ridge (III 5.5) - with Gordon Ye 
  • Stats led & simul-climbed   ? pitche


August 28 - Cathedral Peak - SE Buttress (III 5.7) - with Kenneth Davenport 
  • Stats led all pitches of mostly Var. A. wind & snow   ? pitches
'


August 29 - Yosemite Valley - Rock Climbing - with Kenneth Davenport
  • Pat and Jack Pinnacle
    • Nurdle (5.8, 2 pitches)(Followed)
    • Sherrie's Crack (5.10c)(TR) - 5.10c fingers, 5.9 hands
 

 


September

Top

September 4 - Matthes Crest - South to North Traverse (III 5.7) - with Edward Lau
  • Stats: led all pitches & simul-climbed ridge. 4 pitches

September 5 - Tuolumne Meadows - Rock Climbing- with Daniel Honegger, Carissa Chun
  • Murphey Creek
    • Frogger (5.7)(TR) - Wide fist to finger crack variations & layback variation. Climbed up & down 3 variations made harder than 5.7
 



September 6 - Tuolumne Meadows - Rock Climbing- with Daniel Honegger
  • Stately Pleasure Dome
    • West Country (5.7, 4 pitches)(Led)(DNF - bailed @ 5.7 crux on 2nd pitch after getting the willies. Downclimbed & cleaned pro)
  • Pothole Dome 
    • Right Side TR #4,5,6 (5.6-5.10a)(TR) - Slab downclimb
 



September 10 - Various - with Topher Judd
  • Lone Pine Peak
    • North Ridge (III, 5.5-5.7) (DNF)
  • Crystal Crag
    • North Ridge (II, 5.7)
      • Led P1 (5.7) & P3 (5.2?)
      • Followed P2 (5.6?)
      • Simul-climbed ridge
      • Descended S Ridge (cl. 4-5 var)
  • Stats


September 11 - Tuolumne Meadows - Rock Climbing - with Topher Judd
  • Lembert Dome
    • Northwest Books (5.6, 2 pitches)(Led P1(5.6))
  • Puppy Dome
    • Puppy Crack (5.7)(Led)
    • Left Crack above Puppy Crack (5.5)(TR) - also downclimbed
    • Right Crack above Puppy Crack (5.10a/b)(TR) - lower slab crux
 

September 18 - Mt Clark - NW Arete (5.4-5.5 var) with Joel Wilson, Heyning Cheng, & Suet Fei 
  • 26 miles, 8700 ft gain, 23 hrs hiking w/ 30 lb pack. 2 pitches



September 25 - North Peak - (Right) North Couloir (II, AI2, 3 pitches) - with Sean Hermany 
  • Stats Led all 3 pitches


September 26 - Tuolumne Meadows- Rock Climbing- with Sean Hermany
  • Western Front
    • Green Eggs & Ham (5.9)(TR)
    • March of Dimes (5.10a)(TR)
    • Ace in the Hole (5.10a)(TR)
    • Deadheads Delight (5.9)(TR)
 



October

Top

October 2 - Half Dome - Snake Dike (II-III, 5.7R, 8 pitches)(led all 8 pitches) - with Daniel Honegger (on my rope), Mike Shen, & Edward Lau (following as a separate team)
  • Stats: 

October 9 - Mt Starr King - Northeast Face (5.4R/5.5R)(led both pitches) - with Vitality Musiyenko (on my rope), Max Belyakov, & Blaise (following as a separate team) 
  • Stats


October 10 - Yosemite - Valley Cragging - with Vitality Musiyenko, Max Belyakov, & Blaise
  • Swan Slab Area
    • Penthouse Cracks (left) (5.10d?)(TR) (DNF) - Supertopo calls it 5.10a, but is was leagues harder than anything I've climbed up to 5.10c. I almost made it past the crux - dirty, awkward, & burly!
    • Penthouse Cracks (left-center) (5.10a)(TR) - so good I did it twice.
    • Penthouse Cracks (right-center) (5.10a/b)(TR) - Skipped lower 6 ft slab section, which was probably the specified 5.11a for the route. Pin-scarred finger crack felt more like 5.10a-5.10b & fun!
    • Penthouse Cracks (right) (5.8)(TR) - and downclimbed 4x
    • Unnamed Flared Crack (5.8)(TR)
    • Unnamed Crack (5.7)(TR)
    • Unnamed crack (5.9)(TR) - and downclimbed.
    • Swan Slab Squeeze (5.7)(TR) - chimney/offwidth.
 

October 16, 17, 23, 24 - Wilderness First Responder (WFR/Wilfer) course (2 of 5 weekends) 

 

October 29 - Wasatch Range, UT - Little Cottonwood Canyon - Rock Climbing - with Michael Heathfield
  • School Room Area
    • Bushwack Crack (C1 Aid, fingers to hands)(led)
    • Bushwack Crack (5.8 fingers to hands)(led) - 15 minutes for 1st pitch (80 ft).
    • Piton placing/cleaning practice
    • Hatchet Crack (5.7) (led) - Very awkward to climb & place pro.
 



November

Top

November 2 - Wasatch Range, UT - Little Cottonwood Canyon - Rock Climbing- with Michael Heathfield, Chad, & Paul
  • Pentapitch Area
    • Pentapitch (5.8, 5 pitches)(led all pitches) - last pitch is the money pitch, but very thin.
      • Led P1: (5.6),  P2 (),  P3 (),  P4 (),  P5 (5.8)
    • Sasquatch (5.9+)(TR) - Fun, thin fingers/tips.
 
November 3 - Wasatch Range, UT - Little Cottonwood Canyon - with Alec LaLonde
  • Crescent Crack Buttress
    • Crescent Crack (5.7, 2 pitches)(led all pitches) - linkup w/ Direct Variation. Offwidth was burly!
      • Led P1(5.7) & P2 (5.7 OW)
    • + Crescent Crack Direct Variation (5.9, 1 pitch) - linkup w/ Final Link. Awkward. Burly. Sustained.
    • + Final Link (5.9, 1 pitch) - Linkup w/ The Coffin. Nice slab. A little gritty.
  • The Coffin
    • + The Coffin (5.9, 1 pitch) - linkup w/ Right Side Variation. Great fingers.
    • + Right Side Variation (5.9, 1 pitch) - Tougher than the Coffin. Awkward, especially on the 5.8 finish.
 


November 6, 7, 13, 14, 20, 21 - Wilderness First Responder (WFR/Wilfer) course (Last 3 of 5 weekends) 

 

November 25 - Joshua Tree NP - with Vitaliy Musiyenko
  • Sheep Pass Campground - Timeless Void Clump
    • This Puppy (5.6)(Led)
    • Bullocks Fashion Center (5.8)(TR)
  • Hidden Valley Area - Intersection Rock
    • Pinnacle Stand (5.7, 1 of 2 pitches)(Led)
    • Let It All Hang Out (5.10b)(TR) - Fun, burly finger crack.
 


November 26 - Joshua Tree NP with Vitaliy Musiyenko
  • Hidden Valley Area - Intersection Rock
    • Mike's Books (5.6 w/ 5.8 start, 2 pitches)(Led) - Finger Cracks to OW/chimney.
      • Led P1 (5.8), P2 (5.6)
    • The Waterchute (5.10b)(TR) - Fun, tricky OW/groove.
    • Bat Crack (5.5)(Led) - Chimney/OW.
 


November 27 - Joshua Tree NP - with Vitaliy Musiyenko
  • Quail Springs Area - Trashcan Rock
    • Filch (5.5)(Led) - OW to hand crack.
    • Right Sawdust Crack (5.8)(Led & TR, downclimbed 2x) - Pumpy, steep, leaning hand/fist crack.
    • Left Sawdust Crack (5.10c)(TR)
    • B-1 (5.1)(Followed up & downled) - Interesting chimney/OW.
    • Tiptoe (5.7+)(Led) - Slab w/ dike.
    • Cranny (5.8)(Led) - Steep double cracks.


 

December

Top

December 11 - Yosemite Valley - Rock Climbing - with Vitaliy Musiyenko
  • Swan Slab Area
    • Penelope's Problem (5.7) (led)
    • Swan Slab Chimney (5.5) (led)
    • Grant's Crack (5.9) (TR) - Fell on 1st time. Climbed clean on second round.
    • Unnamed Thin Crack (5.10a) (TR) - Climbed clean. Thin fingers mixed with face moves!
    • Joy (5.6) (led) - Stout & fun full-body offwidth/chimney with a runout section w/o pro. Drawn in ST but not listed, so we made up a name for it.
  • Church Bowl Area
    • Uncle Fanny (5.7) (led) - Fun & burly OW/chimney.
 
December 12 - Yosemite Valley - Rock Climbing - with Vitaliy Musiyenko
  • Knob Hill Area
    • Pot Belly (5.8) (led) - Undercling Variation & downclimbed 4x.
    • Pot Belly (5.8) (TR) - Slab Variation - very slick!
    • Unnamed (5.9) (TR) - 5.8-5.9 tips.
    • Unnamed (5.9) (TR) - Slab & tips.
    • Sloth Wall (5.7) (led) - Very easy lead. Fun rock!
    • Just for Starters (5.10a) (led) - Good for bragging rights if you want to be lame & claim that you've led a .10a.
    • Turkie Pie (aka. Chicken Pie) (5.7) (led) - A little awkward & interesting.
    • Anti Ego Crack (5.7) (led) - Fun wide crack. Leap-frogged a #4 cam, then #3 cam. Led 150' in 15 min.
 

 
December 15 - Skull Rock - Drytooling- with Vitaliy Musiyenko & Dirk Summers
  • Beginner Rock (Names are my own. I've been 'exploring')
    • The Caves Start (M5) w/ Center Finish (M4)(TR)
    • The Arete (M4) w/ Left Finish (M4+)(TR)
    • Wuss Cave (M4+)(TR)
    • 3/4 Perspective (M5+)(TR)
 


 
December 31 - Lee Vining - Ice Climbing - with Vitaliy Musiyenko
  • Chouinard Falls
    • Classic Curve (WI3+) - Climbed left variation & downclimbed.
    • Classic Curve (WI3+) - Mock led - placed 9 screws. Feelin' better about leading!
 

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